people without a country

Rebecca Hosking

visited the Long Neck Karen hill tribe near Mae Hong Son in Thailand. I must admit I felt like I was strolling onto a page of a National Geographic magazine. I was there in 1997 a very long time ago! When in the presence of the people they spoke of longing to go back to their homeland and here they are twelve years later still without citizenship or a place to call their own.

In this tribe the women wore a long piece of brass coiled around their necks, legs and arms. There are numerous stories explaining why the coils exist. Some say for protection against tiger attacks. I have also read they would do this to make their appearance unsightly to avoid slave trade. When I asked them why this was done most of them responded with the answer, “Tradition!” Although their necks look elongated the brass rings in fact push their shoulder and collar bones down. Their necks are no different from yours or mine even though it appears to be longer. These coils are put on their necks at a very young age if removed their neck muscles are so weak they are unable to lift their own heads. This may seem like cruel and unusual punishment to me, but who am I to judge a people for their cultural beliefs because I do not understand it?

The controversy:
The tribes are refugees from Burma (Myanmar) fleeing from genocide of their ethnic race. There is much talk about the Thai people exploiting them for money and using them as a tourist trap. They are forced to continue this tradition that their culture created in order to live in servitude under tourists gazing eyes. When I learned of the human rights violations done towards these people on Burmese soil I thought thank goodness they had a place to flee. I’m sure there is some exploitation taking place. I can not speak for them but it seems they choose to stay in these camps rather than go back to Burma and be slaughtered. The Thai government is not very open to letting Burmese refugees into their borders. The Long Neck Tribes are welcomed because of their distinctive appearance. So their options are to live in the camps or go back and risk death. The government in fact had created laws that benefit and helped the refugees. Unfortunately the people who own the camps prevent the refugees from utilizing these rights for fear of losing their profits as a result.

My emotions are mixed because no one should be displayed as an exhibit. They are fascinating people, friendly and always smiling. They deserve respect and are definitely worth learning more about. In a perfect world these people would be able to go back to their homes and live as they see fit, making their own choices and living under their own accord. Since we do not live in a perfect world I am comforted in a small way knowing they are safe and able to live with their families. So many times all over the world refugees face so many hardships of separation, mistreatment and abuse.

My experience:
I did not take a tour out there I had rented a motorbike and made the journey on my own. So in my defense I did not fund a tourist agency in order to go see these people. There is a gate at the entrance that you have to pay an entry fee in order to enter into the camp. Inside the camp the people have shops and sell different items like soap, crafts and postcards etc. not very different from a local pharmacy. To be honest I do not know if over the years the tourists’ numbers have grown but when I was there, there were no other tourists except myself and the person that was with me. Music seemed to be a big part of their culture and the ladies would bust out in song plucking on their hand made guitars without solicitation. Being a musician myself I thought I stumbled upon a creative Mecca. The children were as curious of me as I was of them, touching my clothes and giggling and hiding their smiles behind their tiny fingers. They lived in extreme humble means mostly wooden huts with grass rooftops. Looking back now I do not know if the smiles were faux but I do know it was the highlight of my Thailand experience. Those people touched my heart and I genuinely want nothing more for them than happiness.

Your choice:

Sometimes in the world we live right and wrong are as clear as a looking glass. Other times there are fine lines and the looking glass becomes a little cloudy. If I had my choice no one would suffer. That however is not a realistic point of view. I wish I could say with certainty visiting them does help and they do not mind. I can not say with certainty that staying away is beneficial either. They are there and have been for quite some time. My conscience tells me to keep them in my thoughts and prayers hoping one day they will find the answer and will live in peace in a country that loves and respects them. No matter how we try certain issues are what they are be it good or bad, using your own conscience you decide whether a visit is right for you.

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